Everyone is on Italy time now. William and Lindsey sleep in though, because I think they’re texting their friends back home late into the evenings since the time change has their friends wide awake and in their dinner hour when we’re heading off to bed. Anders is our wake up, somewhere between 6 and 7 every morning. We let him crawl around on us on the bed, half attempting sleep while keeping him from falling off, half hoping he’ll fall asleep again knowing full well that he won’t, until we give up and go in search of caffeine. Often Steve and I take turns, often Parker pops his head in, and then we are all up and walking up the Corso to Montanucci for a cappuccino and a cornetto. (As it turns out, croissants and cornettos (or pastries, or brioche, or…) are slightly different. Foodies, read on. Also, don’t confuse the pastry cornetto with the ice cream cone cornetto! Context is everything.)
We’re bleary-eyed sometimes, and the weather at this early hour is almost no indication of the weather for the rest of the day. It can be dewy and rainy and cool, and by noon it’s like a new summer has arrived. The man at the cash register on the right welcomes you, “Buon giorno, buon giorno, buon giorno!” It’s always nice to step foot in the place and realize you aren’t the only ones up (the Corso is quiet at this hour–with only the supermarket being stocked by a truck that looks far too big to fit on these tiny old streets, and an occasional local walking.) I order a cappuccino and they usher me to sit down while they make it. I do so happily. Anders gets a little taste of cornetto, every morning. He transfers it from one hand to the other, back and forth like this for minutes at a time, flakes falling on him, in the stroller seat.
We’ve become friends with a local couple, Sylvia and Lodovico (owners of Locanda Palazzone). What a treat it has been. The hotel is a little piece of heaven in Umbria. I mean heaven. Postcard views, local wine (that’s exported–so look for Palazzone wine in your local liquor store!), pizza, and lasagna, and cheese, and really great conversation late into the evening. Sylvia has shown us local spots we otherwise wouldn’t have discovered. Sitting around their beautiful table and talking about family and relationships and politics while we feast and have our glasses filled and refilled has been such a gift. Sylvia, originally from Brussels, speaks perfect English, we speak barely any Italian, no French, Lodovico, from Italy, speaks some English (more than he gives himself credit for, I think), and so we more than get by, at a slightly slower pace than we would with all English speakers, but there’s something completely wonderful about it too. Last night we all laughed, as Lodovico, with our urging, tried our peanut butter. He sat across from us spreading it on a piece of bread muttering with his thick Italian accent, “I hate everything,” when really he meant (and was actually saying), “I eat everything.”
This trip, like most trips, has a funny way of making us lose time. What day is it? It’s already 5 pm? I thought it was 2. We were in Lake Como just two weeks ago? That feels like a month ago. You know what I mean? Time moves slower (but somehow faster too?). I love that the kids are witnessing all of this: ordering off of menus they barely understand, saying buon giorno and then switching to buono sera in the evenings, having wine offered to them like it’s water, different languages and worldview being discussed around dinner tables, so on and so forth. More than the museum tickets, it’s this, the observing that every day requires of them, that makes me so happy.
We have that same stroller here in Amsterdam(from the US). It's wonderful but seems so large over here in Europe. I call it the Beast:)
What a beautiful experience to have with the whole family! Your pictures are breathtaking and that little baby is delicious! Enjoy!
I'm not sure if I'm double posting or if Google ate my comment, so I'm re-posting it. Where are you all in those pool pictures?! I need to go there. Probably won't be feasible on our trip coming up (in 3 weeks!!!!) but it looks amazing. Will you guys be hitting Venice, Cinque Terre or Rome anytime soon? (that's our itinerary ;))
that's Locanda Palazzone–the place I linked to! You MUST GO.
Sadly CT isn't on this itinerary and I'm sort of bummed about it–is it your first time? It is AMAZING THERE. Where are you staying?
I've been to Rome, but not Venice or Cinque Terre – super excited!! We are staying with Monica at your recommendation! 😉
I'm madly in love with this essay, this trip, this life … and I'm determined to figure out how to have a similar experience. Your words and pictures couldn't be more perfect.
you can do it!! (we saved–forever–but it's worth it!)
So chic! Your Blog is just bursting with beauty with all these pictures!
Your pictures are breathtaking and your trip is so amazing to read about!!!
The pic of Anders eating poolside – coolest goddamn nursing pic ever. Brava!
I love that pic Bridget and was wondering what kind of lens one uses to capture such a perfect photo?
I love that pic Bridget and was wondering what kind of lens one uses to capture such a perfect photo?
hi friend!! using the 24-70 lens for all of these!
*happy happy sigh* I am LOVING reading through your adventures! Have I said already how grateful I am that you are sharing with all of us?!? Thank you for sharing your story in this season! Absolutely lovely!
Blessings, Rebecca 🙂
I never comment on blogs anymore, but is couldn't resist any of this. Too beautiful. What's the deal with the pool? Is it public? At a hotel? Mind blown.
yes, it's the hotel pool! not public–lucky for us we've become friends with the owners. small boutique hotel with 7 rooms.
who pops out baby # 2 and looks this stunning and fierce ( you in the cobblestone street with the stroller) ? I can't even imagine this kind of beauty~ thanks for sharing your experience.
Beth (your friend in MN.) : )
oh my goodness, thanks so much beth. i'm not sure i'm very fierce but i'll take it.
But did he like the peanut butter?!
GOOD QUESTION. he ate it. but… he didn't take any more. ha!
This simply sounds wonderful.
You are KILLING it with the fashion. Have people come up to ask you for directions in Italian yet? You look like a local (a gorgeous local for sure)!
ha, no! but that's funny. thanks maggie 🙂
My brother and sister are road tripping through Italy right now (they live in Germany and France, respectively – yes, I hate them. jk. but kind of.), and so I'm seeing these gorgeous photos everywhere I look. So cool that you are making this adventure happen with your family! What's been your favorite food so far? Is it straight up Eat Pray Love over there with all the pizza and food?
the pizza… all the pizza. yum. but, will u hate me if i tell u i really miss a giant american salad too?!
I live for pizza. Insert heart-eye emoji here. But I mean, can't blame you for missing our huge salads on this side of the pond. They are gooood.
Loving reading about your Italian adventures – and having serious wanderlust everytime I check into your blog! Where is that red swimsuit from? Looking for a one piece and that one is amaze…
thanks! it's topshop from nordstrom- but i don't see it there any more :-
Keep the pictures coming. Such inspiration 🙂
And eat some gelato for me. xo
I've never traveled abroad, but THIS is how I'd do it – minimize the time spent on touristy sights and just go live in a little village to fully connect and understand the life and culture of the locals. Beautiful words, photos, scenery, and family.
You nailed the travel wardrobe! You always look fabulous. Where did you get the leather jacket? Love.
What a wonderful time!
Hi Bridget- Love you blog! Where are you super cute black motorcycle type boots from?
Thanks!
Miranda
Hi Bridget- Love you blog! Where are you super cute black motorcycle type boots from?
Thanks!
Miranda
shoemint!